Summary: Success with your lawn depends on doing the right thing at the most favorable time.

A new or remodeled home deserves a new lawn, for after all it is an important part of the setting. All home owners contemplating lawn construction will welcome the word that there has been a marked reduction in the mortality rate of new lawns, and once the lawn is started right it is no longer necessary to remake it periodically.

There’s no trick to making a good lawn, all that is necessary is consideration of some of the fundamentals involved, namely:

• Drainage
• Topsoil
• Final grading
• Feeding
• Choice of seed or grass
• Sowing
• Early care
• Weed control

Grading and Drainage

First to be considered is the final grading and drainage. Before any topsoil is put in place, the fill or subsoil should be roughly graded to the desired finish contour allowing room for the addition of 4 to 6 inches of topsoil. By rough grading first it is possible to get a more uniform depth of topsoil throughout the entire lawn area.

For more on Click here to read this article on – Landscape Grading

Heavy, compact soils, especially in low lying areas, might need improved drainage. The right way to take care of this is to survey the property to determine the degree of natural slope and the location of existing drainage facilities.

Plastic drainage pipe is then installed 18 to 20 inches below the final surface. These drainage pipes can tie into drains serving the perimeter of the foundation and roof gutters. Filling ditches with gravel or crushed stone before replacing topsoil will also help the system do a better job of quickly removing excess water.

The ideal seedbed for a permanent lawn is made of soil having a uniform consistency. Must Read Our article on Improving Lawn Soil will help show the importance of having soil foundation for your your lawn as you move forward. Any layers of materials with contrasting textures in the upper 6 inches should be avoided. Begin to reserve your topsoil early. Before building excavation starts, pile it to one side for use later in lawn construction.

Abundance of Humus Preferred

Either a clay or sandy loam containing an abundance of humus is the preferred soil. It should have a granular texture and be friable enough to retain moisture without remaining sticky, but not becoming powdery when it dries. Such a soil 4 to 6 inches deep will provide a most favorable home for grass roots. Also, the deeper the root zone below 4 inches, the healthier the grass will be.

A pleasing grade from the beginning obviates a general facelifting after the grass has been started and also provides a means to carry the excess water off in the right direction. To develop this desirable grade, reference marks on several stakes placed in the ground will be a big help. A carpenter’s chalk line fastened 2 inches above the final lawn level and stretched tightly between stakes is better than trusting to the eye. To help point out high spots or low pockets, use a long board with its straight edge held on the unfinished surface. Then by alternately raking and shoveling, the excess topsoil can be transferred to lower areas.

lawn Fertilizer – Starting The Grass On A Full Stomach

Physical condition is not the only soil factor contributing to the lawn of your dreams. The best grass is started off on a full stomach. Once the lawn is established, food can be applied only from the surface downward. So the right time to fortify a lawn for a vigorous start in life is just before planting. Special turf foods (Lawn Fertilizer) that have as high a content of nitrogen as phosphate and potash combined, applied at the rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet and evenly worked into the top 2 inches, will do the best job on new lawns.

After taking great care in providing drainage, a pleasing grade and the most favorable soil available, it would certainly be foolish economy to plant anything but the finest quality lawn seed.

Since it’s a rare neighborhood where one grass is the best the year around, a blend of perennial grasses will provide the kind of lawn you want. Attempting to start by sowing a single variety is usually asking for a lawn headache. If you don’t know your lawn seed, then make it a point to become acquainted with the lawn professional before you purchase your lawn, grass or turf. Naturally, he will be hesitant about recommending anything that will not give you the best results. Never select lawn seed on the basis of price alone – cheap mixtures are the most expensive in the long run.

Spreaders Eliminate Guess Work

Only 4 or 5 pounds of high quality seed are required for 1,000 square feet of new seedbed. Inexpensive spreaders from companies like Scotts, take much of the guesswork out of planting the right amount of seed for a given area. But even with a spreader it is well to divide the seed in half, planting the first half in the usual manner, and the rest crosswise of the first sowing. This method practically eliminates any possibility of skipping spots.

Broadcasting the seed by hand is made easier if the lawn is divided into sections and a weighed amount of seed reserved for sowing each part. After the seed is sown, hand rake the area very lightly with a flexible lawn rake, being careful not to bury the seed any deeper than 1/8 inch. Rolling with a light roller will firm the soil around the seed and also serve as an alternate method of finishing the planting.

Early Stages

Bringing the new lawn through the early stages of development requires careful watching. It is seldom advisable to force germination by artificial watering since it is next to impossible to match the thoroughness of a gentle rain with sprinkling equipment. However, and underground irrigation system makes lawn maintenance much easier.

Keeping the sprouting grass alive once the green fuzz puts in its appearance is another thing. When rain clouds are giving you the go-by, faithful sprinkling with a fine spray several times daily is recommended. This is imperative when a warm or windy period follows the first appearance of the new grass. Keeping the surface moist will save your investment until the return of normal showers.

There is also a right time to give the lawn its first mowing. When most of the grass has reached the height of 2 to 3 inches, mowing will encourage more lateral growth, leading to a denser turf. The first cutting will he less likely to injure the grass if its foliage is free of moisture and the mower is sharp and adjusted to a cutting height of 1-1/2 to 2 inches.

Lawn Weeds

The rapid growth of weeds is not an uncommon problem faced by the builder of a new lawn. The first few mowings will destroy some weeds, but others may require the use of chemical weed killers. After the grass has been cut a half dozen times, and the temperature is in the low 70′s, it is safe to use a chemical weed control.

Check out – Enemies of Your Lawn

A number of soil and weather factors strongly favor autumn as the best season for planting new lawns and fixing up old fawns. One of the greatest advantages of fall lawn work is that the grass does not have to compete with weeds. It just isn’t natural for troublesome lawn weeds. such as crabgrass. to sprout and make rank development during this season.

by J Lentz – 62931

Late August and September are becoming the most popular months for West Coast lawn making. Since weeds are the despair of all gardeners desiring a perfect lawn, do everything possible to rid yours of weed seeds before sowing the grass.

It isn’t necessary to go to the extremes I did three years before building a new home. I cleaned the land of weeds by planting potatoes one year, melons the second year and a nitrogen – gathering crop the third. When this last crop was at its lushest it was dug in for green manuring, and a couple of months later the lawn seed went in. The resulting lawn rivaled the turfy grass plots of the British.

Use manure in which the weed seeds have germinated, humus from scientifically made compost, Milorganite, or leaf-mold from woodlands you know are clean. In the Southwest peattnoss is particularly useful. Enrich the soil with one or more of these. Work the ground evenly, rake to the desired grade and settle the soil with a thorough watering. Early fall rains help the lawn get off to a good start, for no water from a hose is as acceptable to plant life as rain.

The kind of grass seed to use varies with climate and exposure. In the Northwest a mixture of creeping bent, chewlegs fescue and Kentucky blue is commonly used with some shady bluegrass added if the lawn is not in full sun. Bent grass is much used in central California. A bent grass lawn requires, but repays, constant attention. In the Southwest mixtures are usually used, but in this region the lawn is often resown each year.

Most grass seed is sown at the rate of 1 pound per 200 square feet. After sowing the seed, rake lightly, roll and water with a fine spray. Never let the lawn dry out, and mow when the grass is 4 inches high.

by R Lester – 62840

An attractive lawn, more than any other single feature, expresses the qualities that change a real estate transaction into a home. Such a lawn, however, does not just happen, but is created at the cost of time and labor. When a lawn looks neglected, it is normally not because the owner does not want a beautiful lawn, but because effort has been wasted. The principal causes of failure in lawn making are:

• Inadequate or improper soil preparation
• Over liming or under fertilization or both
• Improper seed mixture
• Mismanagement after planting

The soil and “trash” left around many new houses bear little resemblance to topsoil. An ideal soil for a lawn should have good surface and subsoil drainage, mellowness to the depth of eight inches, ample organic matter, high fertility and slight acidity. Seldom are all of these qualities found in one soil, so it is necessary to amend or change some of them.

Subsoil compaction to the imperiousness of concrete by the large, heavy machines used to grade the lawn area is frequently a serious problem. In those parts of the country where heavy clays underlie the topsoil, machine compaction can only be corrected by the use of a subsoiler – machine which breaks up the subsoil to the depth of 15 to 20 inches – or by laying drainage pipes under the topsoil.

Ideally, the topsoil should be at least eight inches deep. The belief that grass roots do not penetrate more than three or four inches is based on observations made where the imperiousness of the subsoil prevented further penetration. Grass roots, if given a 10 inch friable topsoil through which to move, will penetrate the full 10 inches. Grass supported by such deep roots can survive heat and protracted drought that would kill grass with only three inches of root depth.

A lawn made on a thin topsoil will always be a problem, no matter how expensive the seed used or how diligently water is applied during dry periods. Only in the prairie country and along stream beds can eight inches of good topsoil be found. In the area where forests originally grew (which means most of the country) the topsoil was always thin and low in several plant food elements necessary for lush greensward.

The contractor cannot always be blamed for spreading a pittance of topsoil. Quite possibly that is all he could scrape off the rolling hills before construction began. Though it is not always apparent, such a problem exists wherever houses are built. It can be solved in several ways. If you are willing to produce your own topsoil, the green manure crop plan will provide a seed bed that grasses will enjoy growing in. While it takes time it is far cheaper than buying topsoil.

Green Manure Plan

The green manure plan proposes that the lawn area first be sown in the spring to redtop or preferably Korean lespedeza. This should be cut wherever it reaches three inches in height. Cutting should continue until mid-August when the lespedeza should be rototilled under.

After raking to grade, annual rye-grass should be sown. This will develop a lush stand quickly. Mow it as often as it reaches three inches and allow the clippings to remain. Early the following spring, this is rototilled in at least five inches deep and Korean lespedeza is again sown. Never sow ryegrass in the spring.

Use Sedge Peat

After mowing regularly until mid-August, rototill it in as deep as possible and apply one inch of native peat (a sedge peat not a sphagnum peat). Incorporate this in the top inch of soil by raking. Next apply 25 pounds of a 5-10-5 fertilizer to 1000 square feet of area and rake it in lightly. Sow the grass seed for the permanent lawn by September 1st, roll lightly and water thoroughly. Do not attempt to sow permanent lawn grasses in the spring.

Now you may expect a lawn because you have incorporated three green manure crops into the soil, topped by an inch of 90% organic matter and fertilizer. If you can afford two inches of peat, so much the better. Such soil preparation is not cheap, but maintenance will be so much less that in five years it will more than pay for itself.

Experience has demonstrated that individual grasses, or at most simple mixtures are more satisfactory for lawn making. The grass to use is determined by the physical and chemical make up of the soil, as well as the location of the property. The practice of trying to compensate for a poor seedbed by using grass mixtures of greater tolerance to low fertility, poor drainage or other adverse factors, only intensifies maintenance problems and increases costs.

Careful consideration should be given the sunlight requirements and shade tolerance of the grasses chosen. Of course, conditions will change as trees grow and shade increases. This can largely be disregarded unless the grasses chosen will tolerate no shade or unless the trees are the grass killing kind, such as Norway maple or beech.

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Question: Every summer our bluegrass lawn gets “infested” with crab grass, what can we do to get some control of this weed pest? Katie, Dyersburg, Tennessee

Answer: Katie, where crabgrass is present, watering should be avoided as long as possible. Frequent and light waterings are especially undesirable, since they do the permanent grasses little or no good, yet encourage crabgrass to spread rapidly. Keeping the mower blade set 1-1/2 inches or higher in hot weather prevents crabgrass runners from spreading and rooting so rapidly. Crabgrass cannot be cut close enough to stop it front setting seed.

Chemical preparations are useful for crabgrass control if properly applied. Instructions on the container for rate and frequency of application should be followed to avoid serious turf injury. Trial applications on an inconspicuous corner of the lawn give the home owner experience in chemical treatment and determine whether the amount of injury is tolerable.

The best season for applying and crabgrass killer preparations is from late July through mid-August.

The use of chemicals for crabgrass control is not justified unless the permanent turf grasses are improved by regular fertilization and higher mowing. For the Kentucky bluegrass-fescue lawn the height of cut may be kept at 2 inches until crabgrass is brought under control, then lowered to 1-1/2 inches, Crabgrass cannot be eliminated entirely in one year. All plants should be kept from producing seed for a period of several years. Even then it is better to keep the occasional plant from going to seed than to run the risk of a future infestation.

Dandelions, buckhorn and broadleaved plantain are readily destroyed by 2,4-D preparations. Applied according to the instructions, a small quantity of this chemical can destroy a surprising number of weeds. This chemical, and the sprayer used for it, should be kept away from other valuable garden plants since it may damage them. And if late summer or fall reseeding is planned, make the final treatment several weeks before.

by R Engel

Question: We need some help on “How to make a lawn”, we recently bought a foreclosed home and have remodeled the inside. The lawn looks terrible and now we want to take the time to turn our attention to the yard outside and thought that if we could make the lawn look better (have some green grass maybe) it would make us feel better when we pull in the driveway. There is landscaping to do but want to get started making the lawn our first priority. Mason, Trenton Ohio

Answer: Mason, making a lawn is not complicated. Outside of the matter of good drainage, there is no need for being too fussy about the quality of the lawns soil. While individual grass varieties do have some soil preferences, all of the good ones have a wide range of adaptability in this respect. What is a good job of preparation for one will serve the others equally well.

A minimum layer of 4 to 6 inches of good topsoil is desirable. If topsoil has been stockpiled when the foundation was dug, or if a good quality can be obtained at a reasonable price, certainly it should be used. On the other hand, it is often possible to modify either a heavy clay or light sandy type of subsoil to make it satisfactory for growing grass. Working three or four cubic yards of organic material per 1.000 square feet of area into the soil to a 4 or 5-inch depth will put it into good physical condition. Raw peat is a good materials for this purpose. Baled pulverized peatmoss also is good but usually is too expensive to warrant its use. The cost of these materials must be compared with the cost of time quantity of topsoil required to cover 1,000 square feet to a 4 to 6-inch depth (12 to 18 cubic yards).

After the soil has been thoroughly loosened to a 5- or 6-inch depth, apply 50 to 60 pounds of 20 per cent superphosphate per 1,000 square feet and work it down into the soil as thoroughly as possible. A rotary tiller or garden tractor will do a good job. Where soils are acid, 100 pounds of dolomite lime per 1,000 square feet can be worked in at the same time. Next, 20 to 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet of a good quality complete fertilizer should be spread on the surface and raked in lightly.

Sow seed evenly on the worked surface and rake very lightly to cover. Many grass seeds are small and difficult to distribute uniformly. If such seeds are mixed with about twice their volume of finely screened sand (sandbox sand) they can be handled much more easily, even when a mechanical seeder is used.

The quantity of seed used is an important item. Since seeds of different grasses vary greatly in size and weight, the seeding rates necessarily must be different. Good quality bentgrass seed should be used at a rate of not more than 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Rates for bluegrasses and fescues should not exceed 2 to 3 pounds and 4 to 5 pounds, respectively. Where mixtures are a safe rule is to apply 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. It is seldom necessary to exceed these quantities. To do so not only wastes expensive seed but may actually weaken the grass by causing competition for food and moisture.

Rolling is done for just one purpose – to firm the soil around the seed. A light empty water roller should be used. Soil should be rolled only when reasonably dry. Rolling cannot be substituted for a good job of preliminary grading. Any attempt to roll out high spots will only result in such severe soil compaction that the grass may not come up.

Mulching is added insurance of a good stand of grass. Many kinds of materials can be used. A mulch does two things: It prevents rapid drying out of the soil and reduces the danger of washing out the seed during heavy rains or when it is necessary to water the lawn artificially. Where hay or straw are used they can be spread at the rate of one light bale (75 to 100 pounds) per 1,000 square feet. Mulches should be removed as soon as the grass comes up and turns green. A good time to do this is during a cool cloudy period.

Question: We have heard that putting lime on the lawn will help soil and grass grow plus help improve the health of our lawn. Can you explain the benefits and why liming the soil is a good idea. Matt, Lynchburg, Virginia

Answer: Matt, the value of lime as an aid in producing bigger crops on some soils has been recognized for many years. This is not because lime is valuable as a plant food, but because it neutralizes soil acidity.

A large percentage of lawns and other grass areas do not require lime, the lawn soil condition being such that nothing would be gained by liming, and some harm might even result.

When actually needed, lime may prove of great benefit to grass. Soil lime works to help correct soil acidity or sourness. It helps in making certain plant food elements available to grass, and, in addition, it is a direct source of calcium and magnesium, which grass plants need in small amounts.

Lime should not be considered as a substitute for fertilizer. It does not provide those food elements that are of such vital importance to grass and which are lacking in practically all soils, namely, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Soil Acidity

For simplicity’s sake, chemists have devised a scale for designating hydrogen ion concentration or intensity of acidity. The unit of measurement is known as pH. The neutral point on the scale, indicated by 7 is the pH value of distilled water. Values lower than pH 7 indicate degrees of acidity while those higher indicate degrees of alkalinity. The pH values represent intensity of acidity or alkalinity and not quantities of acid or alkali present.

Fortunately, lawn and turf grasses will grow over a wide range of soil acidity and alkalinity, although the moderately acid soils varying from pH 6.0 to 6.5 probably are best. If the acidity is more intense than pH 6, lime will be needed. Soils can be too alkaline for grass but this is rare.

Excessive acidity hinders the growth of grass. It interferes with the activity of certain bacteria which change raw plant food elements into forms usable by grass. Undue acidity, preventing decay of organic matter, may mat the turf with dead roots which will diminish the circulation of air and water in heavier soils.

A turf on an extremely acid soil may be subjected to frequent attacks by lawn fungus diseases since the causal fungi generally grow better in an acid medium.

Indications of Acid Soil

The appearance of grass as an indication of soil acidity is not to be trusted. There is some evidence of the need of lime in a shallow grass root system, the appearance of certain weeds, and otherwise unaccountable lack of response to fertilizer. Several causes connected with food supply, soil texture and drainage, may produce similar appearances. The sure way to know if lime is needed is to learn the pH value with a soil test.

Putting greens and other areas that have been much stimulated by acid producing fertilizers are often very acid, especially if the soil has a natural tendency toward acidity.

The growth of moss may be the result of an acid soil but is more likely to result from a deficiency in plant nutrients, poor drainage or excessive shade.

To use unneeded lime on a soil is wasteful and may be harmful. If a laboratory test of the pH value of the soil shows that lime is needed, it should be applied properly, in the best form, at the best time, and in the required amount.

When to Lime

Lime is most effective when mixed with the soil to the normal depth of the grass roots. On an established lawn where only surface application can be made, penetration is best accomplished during periods of alternate freezing and thawing. Therefore, it is best to make application in the late fall, winter, or early spring.

In case of a newly prepared seed bed, lime can be raked or mixed into the upper six inches. The season is of no consequence except that application is best made several weeks or even months before seeding.

Lime may be applied after plowing under a green manure crop or a heavy stand of grass and before preparation of the seed bed. This will stimulate the bacteria that break down the organic matter and liberate plant food.

Forms of Lime

The term lime, referring strictly to calcium oxide, has been broadened to include various commercial compounds of calcium and magnesium which are commonly used to overcome soil acidity what is called “dolomite lime”. In most localities the only suitable forms are ground limestone and hydrated lime.

Ground limestone is native limestone crushed to an effective degree of fineness. For overcoming soil acidity, it should contain about 50 per cent of calcium oxide and should be fine enough so that about 75 per cent will pass through a 100 mesh screen and all through a 20 mesh screen.

Hydrated lime is made by heating ground limestone to such a temperature that the carbon dioxide and water are driven off. This makes burned lime, which is very caustic. By slaking with a fine spray of water as the burned lime is forced through a blower, hydrated lime is formed. A good quality tests about 75 per cent calcium oxide.

Quantities of Lime

A prescription for the use of lime cannot be written unless an accurate soil test is made. When the pH and the soil type are known the proper amount of a given form of lime may be calculated.

Except in extreme cases, the quantity of lime required will vary from 50 to 100 pounds per 1000 square feet, or from one ton to two tons per acre.

In liming established turf areas, not more than 50 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet should be used in a single application. If more is needed the application should be divided among several seasons. In preparation of a new seed bed, the entire quantity desired may be added at one time, but it should be thoroughly harrowed or raked into the upper five or six inches.

It is especially difficult to change the reaction of silt or clay that is well fortified with organic matter; hence such soils require more lime than a light, sandy soil having the same intensity of acidity.

It is far better to lime too little than too much. An overdose may upset the chemical balance of the soil, causing starvation of the grass plants and permitting certain weeds to gain control of the lawn.

Lime may be broadcast by hand or, better, with a mechanical spreader such as used for lawn fertilizer. Such spreaders are available in small sizes for home use, as well as in large tractor-drawn equipment.

It is important to spread evenly since the lime will not move laterally through the ground, but only downward. On established turf areas, the lime should be washed or brushed off the grass leaves to prevent burning.

Native Limestone Country

The need of a soil for lime may depend largely upon the nature of its parent material, and upon the extent of leaching of alkalies.

Soils of the Atlantic Seaboard and New England States are likely to be acid because of their derivation from granites, sandstones or shales. Also, soils in New York State and northern Pennsylvania tend toward acidity, as do those of eastern Ohio.

In other parts of the country soils may be alkaline. In southern Pennsylvania there is much natural limestone. Beginning in western Ohio and extending through Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin and into the far west, soils are generally of limestone origin.

However, it is not safe to infer the acidity or alkalinity of a soil from the fact of its location in any such division of the country. There are many modifying factors. Conditions may vary, even on adjoining properties. The maintenance program may cause an alkaline soil to become acid. Or, an alkaline condition may be maintained because of regular sprinkling with water that is strong in lime, or because of frequent topdressing with soil containing lime. A soil test is the safe guide.

Question: We think our lawn soil is not very healthy. The grass in our lawn does not grow well and wanted to know what lawn treatment or soil conditioner we could add to improve the quality of the soil before either laying sod down or seeding the lawn. One neighbor says to add sand and another says to add organic material. What is the answer to our lawn problems? Clint, Jacksonville, NC

Answer: Clint, it would be helpful for you to get some basic facts about lawn soil before taking any steps with lawn treatments, adding soil conditioners, dumping sand or working in organic material in the soil. Most of “lawn knowledge” needed is simple and easy to learn.

Many homeowners under estimate the importance of lawn soil quality and how it relates to the success they will have in growing a beautiful, lush lawn. Never forget – “All lawn soils can be improved” – none are perfect or measure up to the ideal grass growing standards. Understanding what soil conditions make for growing healthy grass and a thick lawn, make the task of lawn care much easier.

Soil Comes In Layers

For lawn grasses to achieve their best growth, they should at a minimum have 5 or 6 inches of well draining, good, rich soil. Some would say that “lawn soil” goes down as deep as you can imagine. To be more correct what we are talking about is 5 -6 inches of surface soil.

If you look at a soil cross section of soil strata, you see basically 3 layers:

• The bottom layer or porous substratum which is not soil but decomposed rock
• The middle layer or subsoil is very low in fertility but does hold moisture
• The top layer or surface soil where organic material, nutrients and biological activity are at the highest. This could be for several inches to several feet deep.

Remember, the deeper grass roots grow, the better for the health of the grass. It is very possible, depending on the grass type for the root system to reach downward 24″ – 30″ inches.

The real growth of grass occurs in the surface soil. The subsoil is very low in nutrients and the grass roots want food so do not venture much into the subsoil. However, the subsoil functions as a moisture reservoir for the surface soil as it yields some of its moisture as the surface soil becomes dry. The moisture “released” must be replenished and that is one reason why deep watering a lawn is a good idea.

Good Soil Has Room For Both Air And Water

Regardless of the depth of the surface soil, grass roots must have moisture and air. The moisture helps break down and dissolve the nutrients the grass needs before the tiny root system can absorb them. The moisture also serves as a water fountain the grass requires. However, without air, the root system stays saturated in water, suffocates and rots.

When it rains naturally or through a sprinkler irrigation system the surface soil absorbs and holds the water and the rest of the water drains down through the surface soil into the subsoil. The subsoil replenishes the water and moisture it needs and passes the rest down into the porous rock. As evaporation and transpiration occur, air replaces where the water was. Surface soil is a “system” which absorbs moisture, gives up moisture, breathes and repeats.

In a perfect scenario everything works to perfection, but as we stated above there are no perfect lawn soils. Soils can become dry with too much air and also water logged starving for air.

If your soil holds too much water and does not drain or too little water, that is where you need to start improving the soil for your lawn.

Power equipment requirements vary greatly according to the equipment owner, use, needs, the size and type of the their place and its geographical location. Some pieces of mechanical equipment are of great value almost anywhere while others are much more specialized in their uses.

Rotary Mowers

Few power tools are more useful to make short work in the landscape than the rotary mower.

Most rotary type mowers consist of a framework with handlebars, direct drive motor, a one-piece blade and wheels. For sheer simplicity it is difficult to equal. Small rotary mowers are seldom self-propelled. The blade alone is driven by the motor but using a rotary mower for the first time is a pleasant surprise. The stuff you are mowing just disappears into tiny bits.

The rotary will mow high as well as low grass, weeds and very small saplings. It will even mow large saplings if they can be bent so the knife below the shield will reach them. One of the better rotary mowers has a leaf-grinding attachment which is the best thing of its kind to come to my attention. Where leaves are a problem this is “it.”

Maintenance costs on rotary mowers are low because of their simplicity, since the blade may be removed and sharpened with a file or grinding wheel by the owner.

Safety habits are important. Never work on or adjust any machine while its motor is running. When working on the blade of a rotary mower take one extra precaution-disconnect the ignition cable at the spark plug. It is not a bad idea to do this when storing the machine between jobs, too.

The popular manufacturers of rotary type mowers are: Toro, Honda, John Deere, Snapper, Yard Man and Murray

Hedge Trimmers

The average person, called upon to trim a hedge by hand, finds the work arduous and distasteful. Therefore the power hedge trimmer. Not only does it make the work easier but faster. And, to cut back the new growth alone is not the whole story. The cutting should be clean. Laceration and tearing of the bark should not exist.

This brings us to the questions of design, size, and weight of machine. Power hedge trimmers come in a wide variety of designs, such as reciprocating, chain-tooth and rotary cut. Where any of these embody proper shearing with the ability to keep doing so, the results must be desirable. The rotary trimmers have an advantage over most conventional trimmers in that they cut both left and right. This is important where there is a lot of work to be done, since the operator doesn’t have to keep changing sides to trim in opposite directions.

The angles at which the cutters are ground have an important bearing on how clean a cut is made. Also, improper sharpening later can impair the effectiveness of any trimmer you select. In most cases the cutting surfaces pass over a series of teeth or opposing edges. Together they cut. Therefore, it is necessary that they remain in close contact with one another. Any tendency to part is sure to produce unsatisfactory results. Adjustment should also be possible to compensate for wear and the trimmer should also have adequate power to cut the heavier branches occasionally encountered.

Likewise, the trimmer should be balanced and provided with handles to permit easy operation in all positions, vertical and horizontal, without fatigue. The size and weight depend upon the kind of work to be done, tae amount and the ability of the user to handle the machine. Diecast parts are sometimes used to reduce weight but avoid them in parts subject to heavy wear.

The user with a short hedge near an electrical outlet need have little worry about “line voltage drop” which takes place when an electrical tool is used at too great a distance from the source of power for the size of the extension cord. When “drop” occurs the input of energy into the motor is not sufficient for the motor to develop its rated horsepower and may overheat or even burn out the motor. For small homes with a distance to cover a gas powered hedge trimmer is the best and most flexible solution.

Electric trimmers are regularly furnished in sizes ranging from 12 inches to 24 inches. The size depends upon your needs but try to buy a brand of known standing from a reputable dealer. In any case, be more concerned with inner construction than outward appearance and look for lack of vibration.

Sprayers

For years power sprayers were familiar equipment with commercial growers. Today, however, the sprayer finds still more uses such as the control of weeds, crabgrass and other vegetation, thinning fruit, defoliating nursery stock, etc. The power sprayer market offers almost unlimited types and sizes. A person interested merely in weed control would presumably buy a less expensive sprayer than one with fruit trees, because of their low need for such high pressure to reach their plants. Where there is much tree or orchard work a sprayer capable of developing a 200-pound pressure is advisable.

As an attachment, the sprayer is not yet common. But, when using a small backpack for weed control or lawn areas try to equip it with a drift shield for the protection of desired flowers and shrubs. For spraying shrubbery and small fruit trees sprayer with a wand and a generous length of hose. Agitation can be a issue depending on the type of spray material which can “settle” to the bottom of the tank.

In closing, let me suggest always trying out mechanical equipment to see if it fits your needs and the importance of buying from a servicing dealer.

An underground lawn sprinkler system can be installed in an average home yard, landscape and garden. In fact, some housing developments provide an underground sprinkler as standard equipment with the house complete with a irrigation timer making lawn watering easy. The advancements in the plastics field have brought about many new types of composition pipe which are the basis for these home systems. In addition to bringing the costs down, the use of this pipe has eliminated many of the difficulties in installation and doesn’t require any heavy hauled landscaping equipment.

Easy Installation, Less Expensive

Although an underground sprinkler system is now less expensive and more easily installed, it is something which still must be analyzed and carefully planned if it is to work satisfactorily. The actual labor of installation is simple… any good handyman can do it. The more tricky job is actually laying out the system on paper so that the area to be watered will be thoroughly covered with the water that is available from the house. But it can be done!

The installation of an underground sprinkler is still more expensive than the standard, hose-attached sprinkler. But the convenience of watering your lawn merely by turning a valve or switch is worth the extra cost to many people. Another reason to carefully plan your system is that an underground system is permanent. To save many heartaches and extra work, it should be installed properly at the start. This cannot be stressed too much.

How Many Sprinkler Heads?

Your first consideration is determining how much lawn you want covered and the number of individual sprinkler heads needed. This is not too difficult to figure out. The various manufacturers (Hunter, K-Rain, Nelson, Rain Bird, Roberts, Toro, Weather-Matic) offer a set of instructions just some graph paper so you can spot sprinkler heads on a scale drawing. The radius covered by each head will vary from 7 to 10 feet, depending on the make. It is also possible to have heads which will spray a half- or even quarter circle so that water will not be wasted on the sidewalks or on the driveways.

You may need some assistance from an irrigation professional for the next steps in planning your system. Now you have to determine the amount of water the system will use. Each head sprays a certain amount of water… from 1 to 2 gallons a minute, depending on the make and the total volume of water needed for the system is figured by multiplying the number of heads by the amount each uses.

Estimate Water Volume

The volume of water available from the house must be estimated. This can be computed from your water meter; if you have no meter, the number of heads you can effectively operate can be determined from the water pressure. Installing a irrigation pump is a more common option.

From these figures you will know if your system will, operate properly or not. For instance, if your system will use 30 gallons of water a minute and you have 45 gallons available, it will work fine. On the other hand, if your system calls for 60 gallons of water a minute and you only have 30 gallons available, it will mean that the system will have to be laid out so that only half will be operating at one time. This is done by a series of valves or zones.

Watering Zones

A lawn area can be laid out in separate sections or zones as many as will be needed so that it is possible to have an underground sprinkler no matter what your water volume or the size of the lawn. One manufacturer has adjustable heads so the volume of water can be regulated without materially changing the spray area.

With all these variables, then, it is wise to consult with an irrigation dealer or irrigation specialist who is thoroughly informed about the options and the particular system you want to advise you in planning.

Complete Sprinkler Installation or DIY

Underground sprinklers are sold in two ways. You can buy all the individual components so that each system can be started from scratch. The other way is to buy a kit (this usually covers a specific area). In addition, though, components are also available to augment the kits if the need calls for them. There should be little problem of water consumption with the kits since they usually have but six or seven sprinkler heads which the average home water supply will easily handle. However, if you are considering hooking up two or more kits to operate at the same time, you had better investigate your available water volume first.

Anti-siphon devices are mandatory on underground sprinkler systems in some localities. These are mechanisms which prevent water from backing up through the sprinkler system and into the house water supply or the water table should the main-line pressure fail. Although it is not absolutely necessary to install them in every locality, it is still a good idea. They are hooked up between the main house supply or pump and the sprinkler system.

To install an underground sprinkler system, it is not necessary to dig up large portions of the lawn. The plastic pipe PVC is laid in slits cut with a spade or machine. No sod should have to be removed. Once the pipe is in position so the sprinkler heads are even with the lawn surface… the sod is brought together again.

PVC pipes are used for most underground sprinklers today. Fittings and spray heads are either metal or plastic. On some systems, the plastic pipe is actually threaded; others use a special adhesive to join sections together.

Portable Sprinkler Systems Still Popular

Underground sprinklers are not the only type available by any means. Many people still prefer the type which is connected to the hose. Naturally they don’t offer the convenience of an under- ground system, but they are more versatile in that they can be used for both lawn and garden.

Oscillating sprinklers are quite popular with many gardeners. This type which has a single arm with many jets that rock back and forth sprays in a rectangular pattern. Many lawns are rectangular in shape and suited for this type sprinkler. Also, it is quite easy to situate the sprinkler to prevent overlapping of spray pattern.

Rotating sprinklers are another type with moving parts. This has an arm which is whirled around. Naturally, it sprays in a circular pattern. Some of these are on a spike which can be inserted in the ground with the spraying head several feet high to give a larger spray pattern.

Stationary sprinklers are like the underground heads in that they have no moving parts. These, too, spray in a circular pattern.

Irregular areas are easily conquered with a flexible hose-type sprinkler. These resemble a section of hose but have perforations on one side. They come in lengths of 25 and 50 feet and cover quite an area of lawn.

Soakers are similar to flexible sprinklers only these direct the water down rather than in the air. Some are made of porous material, and the water oozes out.

Nozzles, root waterers and watering wands just about complete the array of watering equipment. Nozzles, of course, give a spray pattern which can be adjusted. Root waterers are plunged into the soil to water at the root level. Watering wands are like elongated nozzles but the water does not come out under pressure. These are used for watering close to the base of a plant when you do not want to wet the foliage.

April can be one of the most active months in the garden. As usual, the various garden duties overlap season wise in the South region.

Lawns

Lawn programs can easily occupy most of the southern gardener’s time during April. Those who use winter grasses interplanted with the permanent turf should use extreme care to manage properly to prevent any unnecessary damage to the permanent turf. Many people plant annual rye in order to maintain a beautiful bright green lawn in winter. The most common lawn grass in this section is Bermuda grass which tolerates the winter grasses. The cultural requirements and responses of the two grasses are very much alike. The important thing to remember is to continue the basic operations of mowing, feeding and watering.

The rye grasses have a tendency to make large clumps that will shade out the permanent lawn grass. Regular mowing to a height of two inches will prevent this, and the winter grass will actually serve as a “nurse crop” during the severe weather. During the intermittent periods of warm days this month, the winter grass grows vigorously and good lawn management must be practiced.

These grasses normally die out, if annual, or are absorbed, if perennial, by the permanent lawn grass as it begins to grow. In many areas the annual rye is killed by chemical methods in order to make way for the permanent grass. This process can be an effective weed control measure and also provide fertilizer to start the lawn off early in the season.

Regular watering and mowing will make a heavy rug-like turf. Personally, I prefer to let the clippings remain on the grass as much benefit comes from the build up of this humus material.

Mowing Tips

A word on mowing might be in order. Regular height of cut is very important, and I prefer one and one half to two inches of cut and, of course, regular cutting to prevent a “hay mown” look after each mowing. The use of a rotary type mower vs. a reel-type mower is one of individual preference. For mowing of rye, a rotary mower must be kept very sharp to prevent white streaks from appearing in the lawn. The white streaks are a result of the green color (chlorophyll) being beaten out of the grass blade tips by a dull mower. Some gardeners have been alarmed over this, but as the problem is purely mechanical, it is easily controlled.

Planter Boxes

April is a good month to get window boxes, both inside and outside, in readiness for spring and summer color, These boxes were known to our grandmothers as “window boxes” because they were always placed in, on, or near a window to catch the light. The plants were nearly always a collection of ferns which were all the vogue then. Now, as then, window boxes still provide many happy hours for our “senior gardeners.”

They are a “natural” for contemporary house and garden designs. The materials can be of many types. As to size, the boxes should be at least eight inches wide, 12 to 15 inches deep, and any convenient length. If the boxes are to be moved, they should be designed in a size for easy handling, or equipped with casters or rollers.

The soil should be prepared especially for the type of plants to be grown. A good basic soil mixture is composed of two parts good garden loam, one part well-rotted leaf mold or humus, and one part of sharp sand. Add to this mixture two average size teacups level full of a balanced fertilizer (4-12-4, 5-10-5) for each bushel of soil. Use this mixture for outdoor boxes. All that said… I prefer the bagged soil mix already “charged” with a fertilizer. Basically pour and plant. Plant food is used quickly in boxes and should be replenished or supplemented by monthly applications of liquid food or the addition of new soil.

Pruning

Many of the flowering shrubs have finished their display now, while others are now in full bloom, and still others will follow. Such plants as forsythia, red bud, winter jasmine and spirea are among the early ones. Pruning of these, if done at all, should follow the fading of the flowers. A word of caution – do not prune for the sake of exercise, but for a definite purpose, such as to correct growing habits, train the plants, stimulate new growth, or remove dead, damaged or diseased limbs. The season for heavy pruning is definitely running out.

Spraying

Lace wing bug damage will soon be in evidence on pyracantha and other broadleaf plants, even some shade trees. Aphids will make their presence known in large numbers with the first really warm days. These appear as many very small green and shaded insects that secrete a sticky substance (honeydew) on the buds of roses and young twigs of plants. They can be controlled by using Malathion sprays. They should be sprayed as soon as possible, as they injure or deform new leaf or flower buds.

Bulbs

The climax of the spring bulb display comes during April. The rewards of work done last October should be bountiful to the gardener who planted tulips, hyacinths, daffodils and other bulbs. As the flowers bloom be sure to keep the soil soaked by frequent watering to insure good quality blooms and the development of a mature bulb for the next season. The food manufactured in the leaves is stored in the maturing bulb, so all leaves should be left until they dry up and actually become papery in texture.

Roses

Throughout most of this section, roses will come into growth during April, and some bloom will start in the lower part of the area. This makes it too late to set out new plants unless container-grown plants are used. Make sure these are container-grown and not just container “potted” there is such a vital difference!

As the new growth unfolds, get busy on a regular program of pest control. Blackspot, aphids and mildew are the principal offenders that blight rose plants in our area. Rose show schedules for the spring shows should certainly be out this month. Start feeding, disbudding and grooming the specimens for competition. It takes about five weeks from the time buds Hrst are formed until the bloom can be cut for exhibition.

Perennials

Chrysanthemums can be started now by dividing the old clumps and resetting. Be generous with the divisions to insure strong clumps for good bloom next fall. In selecting new varieties, choose those giving bloom before the date of killing frost. It is also well to choose those varieties whose blooming date is after the cool nights have begun, this gives better quality of bloom.

Iris are in full growth and many are in flower and some of the earlier ones may have been nipped or darnaged by the cold or wind. Clean up any leaves or litter around the clumps of iris and check for borer activity. A good precaution to prevent borer damage is to spray the iris weekly with Malathion.

Remember to keep pansies picked regularly to prolong the period of bloom. Feeding with liquid food will insure the size and also improve the quality of bloom, Watering is also essential to keep pansy borders bright and happy on into June.

Many of the perennials grown from seed can be planted out now. Also, the annuals for summer color can be transplanted as soon as danger of killing frost is over. Plant in a group, or mass the colors for most effective use. Also, choose the bright or carrying colors to achieve striking results. In most of this section, transplanting of seasonal color bedding plants is carried on after Easter.

Miscellaneous

Practice clean culture of all bed areas. My grandmother once said, “A flower can grow anywhere a weed can grow.” This is certainly a well-known truth and a good gardener will never allow weeds to utilize the nutrients in the soil when these can be used by desirable plants.

After plants are set, most of them prefer not to be disturbed. Therefore, avoid deep cultivation to prevent tearing out the young feeder roots. This is particularly true in the case of roses. Many people kill their roses with kindness when actually the plants prefer not to have the soil even stirred after vegetative growth has started.

Vegetables

Most vegetables can be planted this month. Just as soon as danger of frost has passed, start the beans, carrots, radishes, leafy vegetables, corn, and others as preferred. Plants of tomato, pepper and eggplant may be transplanted by late April. Try a few of the easily grown herbs in a small, lost corner of your garden. They are both decorative and valuable for seasoning. The various mints often become pests, but even they provide a cool ground cover. Most herbs make beautiful foliage for arranging, both fresh or dry.